The Pudding Menu with Gurdeep Loyal: newsletter volume 1.0

Saltine, The Zuni Cafe Cookbook, Bloomsbury on the Med chic, Sri Lankan condiments & on being Rachmaninov enough

Jan 16, 2024

Welcome to the first ever volume of The Pudding Menu - a probably weekly newsletter on eating, drinking and living in the key of pleasure. If you enjoy it, tell your friends. If you don’t, tell them anyway. After all, the only thing worse than being talked about… is not being talked about. Gurdeep :)

New(ish)… Saltine

I know i’m prone to superlatives, but Saltine has to be the best name for a restaurant there has ever been. Located in what I usually refer to as “that cute bit of Highbury where La Fromagerie is”, Saltine touts itself as a modern neighbourhood restaurant offering seasonal, contemporary cooking in a smart, stylish space.

And my, oh my, do they deliver! Some places just have ‘it’ from the minute you walk in. The brainchild of Mat Appleton and Jess Blackstone (founders of Fink’s) with Head Chef Phil Wood (Spring, St John Marylebone), vibe wise it’s in that Rochelle-meets-Lyles-exposed-brick-and-white-plates camp.

The menu inclination is similar, but with something of a Provençal leaning each time I’ve been. Wines are low intervention. Artisans served include the likes of Neal’s Yard, Wildfarmed and Renegade Wines. The pissaladière is like no other I’ve ever had. And the logo has very exceptional wavy typography.

Saltine, 11 Highbury Park, London N5 1QJ @saltine.london

Oldie but a goodie… The Zuni Cafe Cookbook by Judy Rogers

From the best name for a restaurant ever, to my actual favourite restaurant ever - The Zuni Cafe in San Francisco. The first time I went was about 8 years ago and I was completely captivated by the iconic loft-like space and food in equal measure. This is THE room of San Francisco - the place where everything of note in liberal society happens.

The Zuni Caesar Salad on epic stalks of romaine with fire charred garlic sourdough croutons is a taste i’ll never forget. As is the famous Zuni Cafe Roast Chicken for two, which I ate with a friend perched on one of the mezzanine tables, looking down on the chattering classes of SF below doing their thing.

If my Mum is the one that taught me the emotional intuition of cooking, then it’s The Zuni Cafe Cook Book - along with the books of Shirley O. Corriher - that has taught me the skilful technicality of cooking… but with no less heart.

In particular, the book’s lessons that stayed with me most were those on the importance of salt-brining chicken before cooking it. Contrary to some beliefs that salting dries out the meat, it actually does the opposite if you do it far enough in advance…

Osmosis does indeed first draw out the moisture from inside to the surface - but that moisture then dissolves the salt on the surface - and eventually reserve-osmosis occurs, where the now salty-water seeps back into the flesh and seasons the chicken on the inside. It blew my mind when I first read it, and this book still does. Essential for any home-cook… and probably the best cookery lessons I’ve ever had. Sorry Mum.

The Zuni Cafe Cookbook @zunicafe

Delicious design… S.S. Daley Menswear Fall 24

It’s no secret that I have something of an obsession with the Bloomsbury Group. Particular Forster - my favourite of all authors - for his words (When Angels Fear To Tread really does has some of the greatest sentences ever written); Woolf for her unhinged abstract thinking; and Duncan Grant for his nude painting of a gardener at Charleston that sits on an easel in the big Studio.

The new S. S. Daley Fall 2024 menswear collection was unveiled in Florence at Pitti Uomo last week, by British designer Steven Stokey-Daley. The big news was that Harry Styles has invested in the brand… but for me, the bigger news was how Charleston-on-holiday chic has fully exploded into the mainstream yet again.

My favourite look was this waifish high-waisted pistachio green number, complete with floaty scarves hanging from the neck and bag. It’s giving “sozzled on far too many Cynar Spritz’ at the shabby-chic taverna in Ravello… but i haven’t crashed my Vespa at least and i’ll be ready for the boat party after a snooze and a lemoncello chaser”. It’s giving Mr Ripley at his most manic. It’s maximal, yet minimal. It’s dressy up and dressy down. It’s Charleston dandy meets Antibes bohemian, off for dinner in Haight Ashbury. It’s quite literally a walking vineyard of hanging grapes. To me it’s sublime.

I’m also still swooning over the Kim Jones’ Dior Homme collection set in the fantastical gardens of Charleston… I think Forster would approve.

S. S. Daley @ss_daley

Kitchen hero… Ruci Sri Lankan Condiments

I first came across Ruci Foods in Selfridges Food Hall - the jars were screaming out to be noticed like delicious sirens. Spicy Lime Chutney. Green Coconut Sambol. Rasam Muligatawny Paste. And the one that fully commanded my attention - ‘Brinjal Moju’ - Pickled Aubergine Relish with Dried Sprats and Aromatic Spices. Wow.

With all products hand made in small-batches in Sri Lanka, founder Thana Sivasambu is committed to ingredients sourced directly from farmers at a fair price. And the flavours of these condiments, pickles, chutneys and pastes really are astounding. The ‘Seeni Sambol’ in particular - a fiery sweet onion relish with tamarind, curry leaves, chilli, cinnamon, cloves and pandan. The combination was intriguing in the very best way - hot, caramel sweet, tangy and complexly spiced. I’ll be slathering it on everything in 2024.

Ruci Authentic Sri Lankan @rucifoods

For pudding… Rachmaninov’s almost impossible Ossia Cadenza

Rachmaninov’s hands are frequently fetishized by his critics. What was unique about them was firstly how large then were; secondly that he had very slim fingers; and thirdly that he was double jointed. As a result, he could stretch his hands in ways that quite literally defied humanity.

In the middle of 1st movement of his 3rd Piano Concerto there’s a very famous section - the “ossia cadenza” - often considered to be the hardest passage of piano music ever composed.

A cadenza is an embellished show-offy section of music that highlights the virtuosity of the player. In many ways its an expression of the ultimate artistic capability of humanity at it’s most immediate.

The score has a cadenza for anyone to play. But there’s also an ossia - an alternative - that Rachmaninov offers up for those who want to take on the Gods. It’s effectively a musical gauntlet that dares the player with the most intimidating question there is to any pianist… are you Rachmaninov enough?

My algorithm served me this video on YouTube recently of 10 pianists playing their own interpretations of that impossible Ossia Cadenza back to back. It’s beyond belief to watch. 10 of the chosen ones - each slaying the musical dragon their own unique ways - proving that they are each, indeed more than Rachmaninov enough.

I can’t imagine what it must feel like to be able to play something as physically, psychologically and emotionally charged as this. But the bravado, confidence and swagger involved in even attempting it is something to be admired.

And for pudding wine… Mother Tongue is out in the USA on 31st January!

I’m very excited that my debut Mother Tongue is finally released in the USA at the end of this month! Lots more news on that front to come but in the mean time the pre-order link below, and if you see it in any US based shops please do snap a photo for me.

Click here to pre-order Mother Tongue in the USA!